If you're planning a backyard project, getting a 1 3 8 top rail 20 ft piece is honestly one of the smartest moves you can make for a sturdy chain link fence. I've seen plenty of people try to shortcut their way through a fencing job by using shorter sections or lighter materials, but if you want something that doesn't sag the moment a stray dog leans against it, you have to look at the skeleton of the fence. That skeleton is your top rail.
When you're standing in the aisle of a hardware store or scrolling through a supplier's website, all these numbers can start to look like a math test you didn't study for. But the 1 3 8 top rail 20 ft specification is actually pretty straightforward once you break it down. It's the standard for residential fencing, and choosing the 20-foot length over the shorter 10-foot options is a decision your future self will definitely thank you for.
Why the 20-foot length is a game changer
Most big-box home improvement stores love to stock 10-foot rails because they're easier for the average person to throw into the back of a crossover SUV. However, just because they're easier to transport doesn't mean they're better for your fence.
The main reason I always recommend a 1 3 8 top rail 20 ft section is the lack of joints. Every time you have to connect two pieces of pipe, you're creating a potential weak point. Even with high-quality sleeves or swaged ends, a joint is never quite as strong as a solid continuous piece of steel. When you use 20-foot sections, you're cutting the number of connections in half. This makes the entire "spine" of your fence much more rigid.
Think about it this way: if you have a 60-foot run of fence, you can either have five wobbly joints using 10-foot sticks, or just two solid joints using 20-footers. It looks cleaner, it stays straighter over time, and it's significantly less likely to develop that annoying "wave" look that old chain link fences get.
Understanding the 1-3/8 inch diameter
The "1 3 8" part refers to the outside diameter of the pipe. For most residential backyards, this is the "Goldilocks" size. It's not so thick that it looks like you're building a high-security prison around your garden, but it's thick enough to support the weight of the chain link fabric without buckling.
If you go smaller than 1-3/8 inches, you're looking at something that's basically a curtain rod. It might hold up for a few months, but the first time a heavy branch falls on it or a kid tries to climb over, it's going to bend. On the flip side, going larger—like a 1-5/8 or 2-inch rail—is usually overkill for a standard home fence and will just end up costing you a lot more money for hardware that doesn't quite fit the aesthetic.
Dealing with the logistics of a 20-foot rail
I won't lie to you—moving a 1 3 8 top rail 20 ft pipe is a bit of a production. You aren't going to fit this inside a minivan. If you don't have a truck with a dedicated rack or a long trailer, you're going to need to get creative or pay for delivery.
If you're hauling these yourself, make sure you have plenty of red flags to tie to the end. Twenty feet is long—longer than most people realize until they see it sticking out the back of a truck bed. You also want to make sure you have a solid center point of support so the pipe doesn't bounce and permanently bend while you're hitting potholes on the way home.
Once you get it to the job site, handling it is a two-person job. Trying to maneuver a 20-foot piece of steel by yourself is a great way to accidentally take out a mailbox or poke a hole in your siding. But once it's up on the line posts, that length becomes your best friend because it stays put while you're securing it.
The difference between swaged ends and plain ends
When you're shopping for a 1 3 8 top rail 20 ft rail, you'll likely see two versions: swaged and plain.
A swaged end means one end of the pipe has been slightly "squished" or tapered so it can slide directly into the end of the next pipe. This is a lifesaver. It eliminates the need for separate top rail sleeves, which saves you a few bucks and looks a lot more professional.
If you end up with plain ends, you'll have to buy sleeves to join them. While sleeves work fine, they add a bit of bulk to the rail. If you have the choice, always go for the swaged 20-footers. It makes the installation process feel like you're just putting together a giant, heavy Lego set.
Installation tips for a professional finish
Putting up the rail is probably the most satisfying part of building a fence. After you've spent days digging holes and waiting for concrete to set on your terminal and line posts, seeing that 1 3 8 top rail 20 ft line snap into place makes it finally look like a real fence.
One thing people often overlook is the height. You want your top rail to sit about two inches below the top of your chain link mesh. This gives you enough room to use tie wires to pull the mesh tight against the rail.
When you get to a corner or the end of a run, you'll likely need to cut the pipe. Don't bother with a hacksaw unless you really want a workout. A simple pipe cutter (the kind plumbers use) will give you a perfectly clean, square edge. If you use a reciprocating saw or an angle grinder, just make sure to file down the burrs so you don't slice your hands open when you're trying to slide on the rail end caps.
Why the "gauge" matters just as much as the length
You can find a 1 3 8 top rail 20 ft section in different thicknesses, known as "gauges." In the fencing world, the higher the gauge number, the thinner the metal.
For a basic residential fence, you'll usually see 17-gauge or 16-gauge. If you want something that's actually going to last through windstorms and years of use, try to find a "full weight" or lower gauge if your budget allows. Thin-walled tubing is cheaper up front, but it kinks easily. If a heavy snow piles up against your fence or someone leans a ladder against the top rail, the thin stuff will fold like a soda can.
Also, check the galvanization. Since this rail is going to be sitting out in the rain, snow, and sun for the next twenty years, you want a good hot-dipped galvanized coating. This prevents rust from eating the pipe from the inside out. Some of the cheaper stuff you find might only have a thin spray-on coating that starts to flake off after a couple of seasons.
Beyond just fences: Other uses for 20-foot rails
Believe it or not, people buy the 1 3 8 top rail 20 ft sections for all sorts of DIY projects that have nothing to do with keeping a dog in the yard. Because they're relatively lightweight but very rigid, they're perfect for building things like:
- Greenhouse frames: You can bend these rails into hoops to create a "hoop house" for gardening.
- Fruit cages: If birds are eating all your berries, a frame made of top rails and some netting is a permanent solution.
- Temporary carports: A few of these rails and a heavy-duty tarp can save your car from hail or sap.
- Dog runs: Buying the rails and mesh separately is almost always cheaper than buying a pre-made kennel kit.
The bottom line
At the end of the day, your fence is only as good as the materials you put into it. It's tempting to grab whatever is easiest to haul home, but choosing the 1 3 8 top rail 20 ft option is a "pro move" that makes a huge difference in the longevity of the project. It's stronger, it looks better, and it provides a much more stable foundation for your chain link fabric.
Yes, it's a bit of a hassle to transport. Yes, you'll probably need a buddy to help you lift it. But once it's installed and you look down that perfectly straight line of your new fence, you'll be glad you didn't settle for the shorter, flimsier alternatives. Just take your time, measure twice, and make sure you've got the right hardware to back it up. Your backyard—and your neighbors—will thank you for it.